Heading to Irakleia - accompanied by dolphins and a turtle

The sailing was great today but what was even more fabulous was finding a solitary dolphin along the way and then a pod of another four. They swam under the keel of the boat so close to the surface we could see every scratch mark on their backs, they responded to our enthusiastic calls, rolled over, looked up at us and you could swear they were smiling as much as we were grinning. They did rolls and flips, they jumped and splashed and when they had had enough they swam out and looked for new playmates. It was spectacular and fun and made doubly exciting when just a little way on we met a friendly turtle who was curious enough to stay afloat and swim with the boys. 

 

Irakleia is a small island which has a sign - "If you come to Irakeleia no one will find you." It is so quiet, so out of the way but picturesque. Plenty of prickly pears and bougenvilleas and a care and attention to detail which made a every turn in the village a snapshot of some note.

Our swim this pm a cove of tranquility and beauty. Our next stop is Ano Koufonissi.

IOS the party island

Well so we were told and it was on the itinerary to please some lively lads. We passed Sikinos and stopped for a long swim and then headed to Koumbaras bay for another before rounding into Ios port to berth.

The boys were a bit incredulous and ultimately they were proved right. The Party season had not quite started. We had some snacks on board with a chilled bottle of retsina before heading up the hill.

The island's Chora was picturesque and they took a walk to the highest point while we ordered dinner at Millous - the Windmills, for a dinner of kokoretsi, a Greek Speciality of liver and lung wrapped in tripe- delicious and you will have to take my word for it ! 

Our next day proved to be one of the most special of the whole holiday. 

Folegandros Chora

We travelled by bus to the Chora - this is the word for town or capital in Greek and is widely used. The bus journey which cost all of Euros 1.40 took us past some lovely churches and mountain sides.

The drystone walls were everywhere, marking the courtyards of neat homesteads, fields, and donkey and goat pens. They were there to retain what little earth there was to prevent erosion.Sometimes they were almost like crazy lines in the mountains, and you would be excused from thinking they were the result of drunken revelries. The reality is harsher and harder, taking many hours of manual work to create the perfect walls.

The views from the top of the town were magnificent on a grand scale.

The local supermarket - beats Sainsburys, Waitrose and Woolworths any day.

Picturesque homes of  blue and white broken only with splashes of Bougeanvillia. 

At a little square we found a restaurant called Kritikos and just opposite us was this exquisite door from a church. The waiter, a young man who was keen to travel to Europe, had local wine and a greek speciality called kontosouvli - meat on a spit cooked to perfection.  To finish us off loukoumades- honey balls in the Square. We felt we needed to do penance for the all the food we consumed and walked the three kilometres back to the yacht under a star studded sky. 

Finding Folegandros

An island I had never heard of, yet one of the most beautiful of the Cyclades both for its geographical features as well as the traditional houses and towns you encounter.

The way was dotted with impressive rocks jutting out of the sea and lovely sea scapes.

The waters at Akrotiri Artemidos which were almost ink black. There was a shady beach which had black pebbles on it, a complete contrast to the milky, silky ones we found in Sifnos. An ever changing landscape.

 The water at Akrotiri Artemidos which was dark and yet so clear.

We berthed at the small port of Karavostasi which had an impressive wall of green slate rocks inhabited by island cats who had chosen their home carefully.Oh to be a cat on a fishing island.

The fishing boats provided lots of good fish bits for them. The welcome from the local cafe just meters from the port said it all - its name "Araxe" - which in Greek means to take a pew, rest, relax and enjoy.More on the Chora of Folegandros in my next blog. A place of unparalleled beauty.

Sifnos

This was or best sailing day - we got up to 9.7 knots and enjoyed swishing through the water, leaning precariously and feeling the yacht's surge as the sails filled with the Aegean air.

The bay we chose for a swim today was a favourite for a number of reasons - we found the most amazing pebbles, rounded like buttons and smooth like silk and we spent time choosing them and slipping some into or swimsuits to take back with us. The result is Aegean woman who I can proudly share with you all- there are enough men on this trip, not to necessitate another God but a Goddess. The bay was called Gialoudhia Bay- little Glass bay.I just want you all to note the fabulously Greek nose.  Names warmly accepted for her baptism. 

The other reason for loving this place is that it was just crystal clear waters and surrounds- marred sadly by the plastic and bits of netting and other debris left on the beaches. So we cleaned both beaches up and transported the trash to the next port.

We docked at Sifnos and the town of Kamares.

We wandered around and came back with the local goat cheese which was the best thing we had tasted in a long time. Total price for a whole cheese Euros 8. Lunch was this and a fresh tomato and chilli salad.

Serifos

We left Kythnos and headed for Serifos. The wind had picked up considerably and I feared rough seas. You can see the wind on the water.  We stopped at Psilli Ammos to swim, a beach that had been voted best European Beach some years ago. As the wind was up the water felt colder and we swam vigorously to get to the beach and a cave beyond. The boys headed to the beach and found a tree from which to do pull ups.

The Oleanders snaking up the river beds were a vision of loveliness. 

 

Rounding the bend we came into port and docked. The harbour was large full of little restaurants along the beach and plenty of supermarkets and bakeries. We decided that we were going to walk up to the Chora, the main town and visit the Kastro at the top. This involved some wide steps to start with until we got up to the houses and then the steps got narrower and narrower, going through little passages where you had to walk single file. 

We counted the steps up to the top - 824 and there at the very top was a beautiful little church and a couple of young girls who were selling their hand-made bracelets. I immediately started chatting to the younger girl. She came from Albania at the age of one, but was now in a Greek school and speaking fluent Greek. She was clearly very bright and lovely to talk to and she took this stunning picture of us all. Her name is Katina. 

Dinner was souvlaki and giros in pitta with our toes in the sand washed down with a cold red local wine and a couple of baklavas on or way back to the yacht. 

Kythnos

We sailed to our first island Kythnos- and stopped off at Kolona for a lovely swim. This is a crescent shaped sandbar which spans two beaches. We swam in the clear waters and  did callisthenics on the beach and then crossed into the opposite bay which was full of chunks of marble.

We berthed and headed into the Chora, the capital of the island. A lot of the capitals of the islands are inland and often high on hills to avoid the pirates and other invaders. Our taxi driver told us what the island was famous for- sun, sea, goats and fish.

 Perhaps my favourite door in the whole trip.

The lace curtains, hand made adorning most windows, I chose this one exceptionally as it was mauve and not blue.

 An island quite famous for its pottery. Who would have expected blue and white here !

The perfect courtyard for a good meal - Close to god who can look after our spiritual needs while we fill our bellies. Chora has a population of some 1500 and some 230 churches. I was doubtful about how religious they all were, and a more plausible explanation was that the little churches were given electricity first so it was not a bad deal. Build a small church in someone's memory and be lit up spiritually and literally!

Dinner this evening was at Ostria and the standout dish were small fried prawns. Snacky, crunchy, fishy and delicious and a huge grilled fangri - The evening ended for some on the yacht next to us in the harbour. The Romanians on board were serving shots of the most lethal white stuff.