Marvellous Melbourne II

Batmania, Bareport, Bareheep, Barehurp or even Bareberp, all sounding as if they are suffering from an acute case of indigestion, are the unpalatable names that were considered for this new city. Somehow they don't have the same ring as Melbourne, eventually named after William Lamb the first Viscount of Melbourne, the then British Prime Minister. It all started around 1835 with John Batman signing a treaty for the acquisition of land from Wurundjeri elders. 

Robert Hoddle was the man responsible for Melbourne's wonderful grid system. In 1842 it was incorporated into a town along the Yarra river - a few tents and huts is how it all began.

What is remarkable about this city is that it has withstood everything that has been thrown in its way. It has had the benefits of the Gold Rush and the Royal Exhibition Hall and even acted as the capital for a number of years but it was also hit by depressions and the Great Wars and deep financial crisis at various times in its history. This led to times of boom and bust which brought about poverty and stagnation and even times of unrest. 

Interestingly enough as we toured the city we felt that it reminded us a lot of Liverpool which was our home in the North of England for a number of years and we could relate to the rather seventies architecture with its emphasis on bright colours and boxes and the attempts to bring life back into the docklands. The result is that the city is a mix of some of these more troubled times with the recent surge in economic activity and creativity and the splendour of some of its moments of glory from the previous two centuries. 

Let me show you what I mean :

The rather questionable mixture of mid 20 century architecture with something ultra modern.

The old brick buildings with the strong primary colours and the emerging skyscrapers behind. 

 The stunning architecture of this building and the modern tram 

 The views from the Yarra river from a bridge 

 The Parliament, or part of it, with the impressive imported lamps 

 The beauty of the State Library and the Royal Exhibition Building which houses antique shows and displays of white bear skins and stags.

All the seats in this radiating arrangement were full of eager students and scholars 

The beautiful roof and sky lights of the State Library 

The Royal Exhibition Building with its wonderful arches and paint work showing off its rather unusual collections. 

You could not even begin to appreciate this city until you have climbed onto one of these which takes you around the main CBD - from where you can explore the more intimate lanes like Degraves St and the Royal Arcade.

There are surprises on every corner, something to sip or eat, an old building to admire or a new one to astound. The languages are free and fancifully foreign and in amongst them all lives this free Ozzie spirit of openness, enjoyment and adventure. 

Marvellous Melbourne

They say it is the most desirable location in the world to live in - I was curious to see what it was like and can certainly say that there is a lot on offer and what we saw in a couple of days formed a first and very favourable impression with a promise to return for more. 

It's autumn in Australia but there is very little evidence of that in Brisbane - not so in Melbourne where the wind was chilly and the leaves were turning on the oaks and the plane trees.

 What I loved about it : 

The cultural diversity. There were Indians and Bangladeshis, Italians and Greeks, Koreans and Vietnamese. Each community has laid claim to a little part of the town, so the Greeks in Londsdale St, though perhaps not in such big numbers anymore, the Italians in Lygon St, the Vietnamese in Victoria St and on it goes. The food, is heavenly and there is so much choice and variety. I just had to find my very own spanakopitta which was authentic and delicious and cost $8 ! I will occasionally resort to giving prices because I am still stunned at how much everything costs here. 

It is not hard to see how these communities formed the backbone of Melbourne. I went to Victoria Market which dates back to the 1878 (apparently the biggest market in the Southern Hemisphere)  and I was bowled over by the fish, the meat, the fresh fruit and vegetables, the deli counters, the Greeks working next to the Chinese, the Italians with the Philipinos. In the Greek world and affectionately by someone very dear to me I was known as koiliodoulaki - a slave to my stomach ! Yes Food is important to us Greeks. 

An abundance of fresh fish and shell fish

Tuna and salmon in vibrant colours and plentiful quantities 

One of the many deli counters 

A Greek deli with all sorts of olives and Greek cheeses - bliss 

The biggest aubergines I have ever seen

Lovely pumpkins 

Butternut squashes 

Fresh vegetables and herbs 

A whole stall dedicated to all kids of mushrooms - these are oyster but below are a lot more varieties

Best of all was this sign in one of the Greek Restaurants which had me smiling all day. Look carefully at the last line ! More on Melbourne its history and the city in my next blog.

In my street

On my way to town today this is what I came across walking up our road. Rainbow Lorikeets having a feast in this tree. Irresistibly attractive on both sides wouldnt you say !

APT7 Asian Pacific Triennial 0f Contemporary Art

The doors have just closed on a stunning exhibition. I was able to hear about the inside story of its creation so I am going to share with you some of its highlights. 

This is the 7th Asian Pacific Exhibition and it was the most ambitious to date. It featured 75 artists from  from 27 different countries in this area. There was a major focus on Papua New Guinea, but also some stunning pieces from India, Indonesia and Vietnam. 

We had the opportunity to hear about the preparation and commissioning of the works from Papua New Guinea from the curator of the exhibition, an anthropologist and a PNG architect. The challenges and the logistics were enormous. The goals were exceptional and no effort was spared to realise them including bringing the artists over to Australia to create these wonderful works of art. Putting it all up and presenting it was monumental. We heard fascinating insights into PNG architecture, the importance of the spirit houses which are often used for male initiation ceremonies and their costumes which are used for these festivals and celebrations. The theme of the exhibition was to talk about and exhibit the ephemeral. 

 The intricate paintings on one of the spirit houses of painted wood and woven sago palm

 The bilams which the women weave.  It made me treasure ours with a new found appreciation.

 The crocodile costume made with sago palm and notice the shell for an eye 

One of the many masks and costumes of the exhibition

 Some of the totem poles painted by individual language groups and clans 

The roof the the house in the background made by painting individual pieces which are then all joined together. This is normally suspended over the totem poles. 

This massive bright yellow structure was created by a whole team of volunteers who stuck and painted IKEA cardboard boxes to produce this ephemeral structure, the brainchild of Richard Malloy a New Zealand artist. 

The amazing creations of Raqib Shaw who I have seen previously exhibited in India with references to Javanese Mythology and mythical creatures. He uses the most intricate painting method with enamel paint and diamante pieces which create a three D effect and which is so elaborate a process it can take years to complete. Seemingly idyllic at a distance on closer consideration the animals and persons can be quite ferocious.

The exhibits will now be taken down and stored except for those ones which are so ephemeral that they will be dismantled. IN PNG of course these costumes and spirit houses are left at the mercy of the weather which gradually returns them to the earth from where they came. 

What you get for $215 million

These days you might be excused from answering in a slightly depressed tone, NOT A LOT - look at Cyprus I add quickly. I think dismally at how millions are now the lesser form of money when once I thought that to be a millionaire was the ultimate kudos of success. Here is a success story with millions. 

In Brisbane this amount has given the Brisbane City Hall, apparently the biggest one in Australia, back to the people of the city. In a poignant but warm ceremony the city hall which had been closed for three years for refurbishment has been re dedicated to the people of the City.

It is affectionately known as the People's Place.

It was opened on the 8th of April 1930 and it was the tallest building in the city for many years. It is a lovely mix of better known buildings, the Pantheon in Rome, St Marks Campanile in Venice and Greek temples with their Ionic columns and friezes.The frieze done by the famous sculptor Daphne Mayo shows a scene of settlers and indigenous people.  It was built on a swamp site so after a number of years it was showing some serious defects and so in 2009 that it was closed for 3 years to carry out the necessary renovations. 

I did not know its former splendour but I think I can say that Brisbanites were impressed with the result and I want to share some of those images with you today. The ceremony began with the blessing of an aboriginal song woman who had the most haunting voice. 

We poured into the building eager to see it and explore it - there are now many more reception rooms, a functioning kitchen, the famous Shingle Inn, an iconic cafe of Brisbane has been recreated here, serving high teas and light lunches and the auditorium was immediately set to good use with a free lunch time  concert this week. 

I went along and the first thing I noticed was that the place was packed. Brisbanites are keen to embrace their heritage and their culture. The concert featured an indigenous dance group, complete with their didgeridoos, the Queensland Choir which has a long and proud history and James Morrison an Australian musician who completely captivated his audience, switching from the piano to the trombone and the trumpet seemingly effortlessly to produce fabulous jazz. 

 The beautiful Stained glass windows made by William Bustard a Yorkshire man. 

 The lovely art deco chandeliers 

The white marble balustrade to the main staircase. There is black marble from Belgium, white from Italy and pink from Australia.The Mosaic floors have a meandering pattern which comes from Meander a Greek river in ancient times. 

 The stunning skylight and domed roof which now changes colour 

The organ which has been carefully restored and functions fully 

There are tours to the clock tower and a museum of the Brisbane River. There are events, shows and concerts filling in the calendar and if the first week is anything to go by there will be few empty seats in any of them.